Roofing Glossary
140 terms you will hear on an estimate, an inspection or an insurance claim, explained by the people who install roofs in Southeast Michigan.
Roof Anatomy and Structure
The parts of a roof you will hear named on an estimate, from the framing underneath to the edges and intersections where most leaks start.
- Ridge
The horizontal peak where two roof planes meet at the top of the roof. It is the highest line on the house and the usual spot for a ridge vent, since hot attic air naturally rises to it before exhausting outside.
- Hip
The sloped outside corner where two roof planes meet, running from the ridge down to an eave corner. A hip roof has these on all sides instead of flat gable ends, which usually makes it more wind resistant but adds more cut shingles and cap.
- Valley
The inside angle where two sloped roof planes meet and drain toward each other. Valleys carry more water than any other part of the roof, so they get ice and water shield underneath and either metal or a woven or cut shingle detail on top.
- Eave
The bottom horizontal edge of a roof plane, where water drains into the gutter. The eave is where ice dams form in Michigan winters, which is why we run six feet of ice and water shield here instead of the code minimum.
- Rake
The sloped edge of a roof at a gable end, running from the eave up to the ridge. Rake edges get drip edge and are a common place for wind to catch and lift shingles if the starter course is not installed correctly along them.
- Soffit
The finished underside of the roof overhang, between the fascia and the exterior wall. Vented soffit panels are the main intake for attic ventilation, pulling fresh air in low so hot, moist air can exhaust at the ridge.
- Fascia
The vertical board that runs along the eave edge and caps the ends of the rafters. Gutters hang from the fascia, and rotted fascia is a common find on tear-offs where ice dams or overflowing gutters have soaked it for years.
- Decking (Sheathing)
The plywood or OSB panels nailed over the rafters or trusses that everything else attaches to. Decking is only visible during a tear-off, which is when we walk it, mark soft or rotted sections, and replace them before any underlayment goes down.
- Rafters
Individual sloped framing members, usually 2x6 through 2x10 lumber, that run from the ridge board down to the exterior walls and support the decking. Older stick-framed houses across Southeast Michigan use rafters, which typically leaves an open attic.
- Trusses
Factory-built triangular frames of lumber and metal plates that replace individual rafters and ceiling joists on most homes built since the 1960s. Trusses are engineered as a unit, so cutting or notching one to add storage or a vent can weaken the roof.
- Pitch (Slope)
How steep the roof is, written as inches of rise per 12 inches of run, such as 6/12. Pitch affects material choice, labor cost, and safety setup; roofs at 8/12 and steeper usually price higher because crews need harnesses and roof jacks.
- Square
The unit roofers use to measure and price a roof: one square equals 100 square feet of roof surface. A typical Southeast Michigan ranch runs 20 to 30 squares. Bundles of shingles are sold to cover a set fraction of a square.
- Dormer
A framed structure with its own small roof that projects out of the main roof plane, usually to add a window or headroom upstairs. Every dormer adds valleys, sidewall flashing, and a front apron, which makes dormers a frequent leak source.
- Cricket
A small peaked structure built on the uphill side of a chimney to split water and snow around it instead of letting them pile up behind the brick. Wide chimneys on the downslope side of a roof almost always need one to stay dry.
- Saddle
Another name for a cricket, or more generally any small ridge built to divert water away from a spot where it would otherwise collect, such as behind a chimney or where a low-slope section meets a wall.
- Gable
The triangular section of exterior wall between the two sloped edges of a roof that meets at a peak. Gable roofs are the simplest and most common shape in Michigan subdivisions, with rake edges on the ends and eaves on the sides.
- Overhang
The portion of the roof that extends past the exterior walls, made up of the soffit underneath and the fascia on the edge. Overhangs keep water off the siding and foundation and give soffit vents room to work.
- Low-Slope Roof
A roof section with a pitch below about 2/12, common on additions, porches, and some mid-century homes. Standard shingles are not designed for these slopes, so they get a membrane such as EPDM, TPO, or modified bitumen instead.
Shingles and Roofing Materials
What the products on your estimate actually are, how they differ, and which ones make sense for a Michigan house.
- Asphalt Shingle
The most common residential roofing product in the United States: a fiberglass mat coated in asphalt and topped with mineral granules. Asphalt shingles come in 3-tab, architectural, and luxury grades, and they are what most Southeast Michigan homes wear.
- 3-Tab Shingle
A flat, single-layer asphalt shingle cut into three equal tabs so it looks like three separate pieces once installed. It is the cheapest option and the lightest, which also makes it the most prone to wind damage and the shortest lived.
- Architectural (Dimensional) Shingle
A laminated asphalt shingle built from two or more layers bonded together for a thicker, textured look with random shadow lines. Architectural shingles are heavier and carry higher wind ratings than 3-tab, and they are the standard product on most replacements today.
- Luxury (Designer) Shingle
The heaviest grade of asphalt shingle, built with extra layers to mimic slate or cedar shake at a distance. Luxury shingles cost more per square than architectural, weigh more on the deck, and usually carry the longest manufacturer warranties.
- Class 4 Impact Rated
The highest impact rating under the UL 2218 test, where a two-inch steel ball is dropped on the shingle without cracking it. Class 4 shingles hold up better in hail and some insurers offer a premium discount for them, so ask your agent.
- Stone-Coated Steel
Steel roofing panels or tiles coated in acrylic and stone granules so they resemble shake, tile, or shingles. Stone-coated steel is lightweight, very wind and hail resistant, and priced well above asphalt but usually under standing seam.
- Standing Seam Metal
A metal roof made from long vertical panels joined by raised seams that hide the fasteners. Standing seam sheds snow well and lasts decades, but it costs several times what asphalt does and expands and contracts with Michigan temperature swings.
- EPDM
A black synthetic rubber membrane, short for ethylene propylene diene monomer, used on flat and low-slope roofs. EPDM comes in wide sheets that are glued or ballasted down, with seams sealed by tape or adhesive. It is affordable and easy to repair.
- TPO
A white single-ply membrane, short for thermoplastic polyolefin, used on flat and low-slope roofs. TPO seams are heat welded rather than glued, which makes them stronger than taped EPDM seams, and the white surface reflects summer heat.
- Modified Bitumen
An asphalt-based roll roofing for low slopes, reinforced with polymers so it stays flexible in cold weather. It is installed in overlapping rolls that are torched, cold-applied, or peel-and-stick, and it handles foot traffic better than most single-ply membranes.
- Cedar Shake
Roofing made from split or sawn cedar wood, laid in overlapping courses over spaced or solid decking. Cedar looks great and insulates well, but it needs regular maintenance, is not fire rated on its own, and costs far more than asphalt to install.
- Synthetic Slate
Molded polymer or rubber composite tiles made to look like natural slate or shake without the weight or breakage. Synthetic slate is lighter than real slate, so it usually does not need extra framing, and most products carry Class 4 impact ratings.
- Algae-Resistant Granules
Shingle granules that include copper or zinc, which slowly leach out and stop the black streaks caused by Gloeocapsa magma algae. Most quality architectural shingles now include them and carry a separate algae warranty of ten years or more.
- Starter Strip
A narrow shingle strip with a factory adhesive line, installed along the eaves and rakes before the first course of shingles. It seals the bottom edge of the first row so wind cannot get under it and covers the joints between shingles above.
- Ridge Cap Shingles
Purpose-made shingles that fold over the ridge and hips to cover the joint where two planes meet. Manufacturers make thicker cap products to match architectural shingles; cutting up 3-tab shingles for cap on a laminated roof is a shortcut that fails early.
- Fiberglass Mat
The woven glass fiber core inside a modern asphalt shingle that gives it strength and a Class A fire rating. Nearly all shingles sold today are fiberglass based; the older organic felt-core shingles absorbed water and are no longer common.
- Sealant Strip (Self-Seal Adhesive)
The factory line of thermal adhesive on each shingle that softens in the sun and bonds the shingle to the course below. Shingles installed in cold weather can take weeks to seal, which is why late fall installs should be hand-sealed at edges.
- Class A Fire Rating
The highest fire resistance rating for roof coverings under ASTM E108 and UL 790 testing. Fiberglass asphalt shingles, metal, and most synthetic products earn Class A. Untreated cedar shake does not, which matters for some insurers and local rules.
Underlayment, Flashing and Waterproofing
The layers under and around the shingles that actually keep water out, and the details where a cheap install usually cuts corners.
- Underlayment
The water-resistant layer installed over the decking and under the shingles across the whole roof. It backs up the shingles if wind-driven rain gets past them and keeps the deck dry during installation. Modern jobs use synthetic underlayment; older ones used felt.
- Synthetic Underlayment
A woven polypropylene or polyethylene sheet that has replaced felt on most roofs. It is lighter, tear resistant, and does not wrinkle when wet. We fasten synthetic underlayment with cap nails, not staples, because staples tear through it in wind and void most manufacturer warranties.
- Felt Underlayment
Traditional asphalt-saturated paper underlayment sold as 15 lb or 30 lb felt. It is inexpensive and still meets code, but it tears easily, wrinkles when it gets wet, and degrades faster in the sun if the roof sits uncovered.
- Ice and Water Shield
A self-adhering rubberized asphalt membrane that seals around nails and stops water backed up behind an ice dam from reaching the deck. Code requires it to extend 24 inches past the interior wall line at eaves; Roofing Army installs six feet at every eave plus all valleys and penetrations.
- Drip Edge
An L-shaped metal strip installed along the eaves and rakes that directs water off the edge of the deck and into the gutter instead of behind the fascia. It goes under the underlayment at eaves and over it at rakes.
- Flashing
Any sheet metal or membrane used to seal the joints where a roof meets something else: a wall, chimney, pipe, skylight, or another roof plane. Most roof leaks that are not from worn-out shingles trace back to missing, rusted, or badly lapped flashing.
- Step Flashing
Individual L-shaped pieces of metal woven into each shingle course where a roof plane runs along a vertical wall, such as a dormer side or a second-story wall. Each piece laps the one below it so water steps down and out onto the shingles.
- Counter Flashing
A second layer of flashing set into a mortar joint or attached to a wall that laps down over the top of step or base flashing. It covers the vulnerable top edge of the lower flashing so water running down the wall cannot get behind it.
- Apron Flashing
A single bent piece of metal installed where the bottom of a vertical surface meets the roof, such as the front of a chimney or dormer. The vertical leg goes up the wall behind siding or counter flashing and the horizontal leg lays over the shingles below.
- Pipe Boot
The flashing collar that seals around a plumbing vent pipe where it comes through the roof. Rubber-gasket boots often crack after 10 to 15 years of Michigan sun and cold, and a split boot is one of the most common causes of a bathroom ceiling stain.
- Kick-Out Flashing
A small piece of bent flashing at the bottom of a roof-to-wall intersection that throws water out into the gutter instead of letting it run down behind the siding. Missing kick-out flashing quietly rots sheathing and framing behind the wall for years.
- Valley Metal (Open Valley)
A W-shaped or flat strip of metal installed down the center of a valley, with the shingles cut back on each side so the metal stays exposed. Open metal valleys move water and ice faster than shingle valleys and are easier to inspect.
- Closed-Cut Valley
A valley detail where shingles from one roof plane run across the valley and the shingles from the other plane are trimmed in a straight line a couple of inches off center. It is faster than open metal and looks cleaner, but it must sit on ice and water shield.
- Sealant (Roofing Caulk)
Polyurethane or silicone-based caulk used to seal exposed nail heads, flashing laps, and small gaps around penetrations. Sealant is a finishing detail, not a fix; a roof that depends on caulk to stay dry will leak as soon as the caulk ages.
- Chimney Flashing
The full set of metal pieces that seal a chimney: apron on the front, step flashing up the sides, a cricket or back pan behind, and counter flashing set into the mortar over all of it. Reusing old chimney flashing on a new roof is a common shortcut.
- Skylight Flashing
The manufacturer kit of metal pieces that seals a skylight to the roof, usually a sill piece, step pieces up the sides, and a head piece across the top. Skylights should be replaced or reflashed during a tear-off rather than shingled around.
- Gutter Apron
A wider version of drip edge with a longer lower leg that tucks into the back of the gutter, so water cannot run behind the gutter and down the fascia. It is the better choice at eaves where the gutter hangs a little low or away from the fascia.
Ventilation and Insulation
How air and heat move through your attic, why it matters for ice dams and shingle life, and what a proper ventilation setup looks like.
- Attic Ventilation
The system of intake vents low at the soffits and exhaust vents high at the ridge that keeps air moving through the attic. Good ventilation keeps the roof deck cold in winter to limit ice dams and dumps heat in summer so shingles last longer.
- Ridge Vent
A continuous vent installed along the peak of the roof under the ridge cap shingles, with a slot cut in the decking beneath it. Ridge vent is the most effective exhaust for most homes because it runs the full length of the highest point.
- Soffit Vent
Perforated panels or individual vents in the soffit that let outside air into the attic at the lowest point. Soffit vents only work if the path above them is clear, which is why insulation packed against the roof deck needs baffles to keep the air moving.
- Box Vent (Static Vent)
A square or low-profile metal or plastic exhaust vent installed near the ridge, with no moving parts. Box vents work but each one covers a limited area, so a roof may need several, and mixing them with a ridge vent can short-circuit the airflow.
- Power Vent
An electric or solar-powered fan mounted on the roof or gable that pulls air out of the attic when a thermostat or humidistat triggers it. Power vents move a lot of air but can pull conditioned air up from the house if the ceiling is not sealed.
- Turbine Vent
A round exhaust vent with spinning fins that turn in the wind to draw air out of the attic, often called a whirlybird. Turbines work without electricity but can rattle, seize up, and let in snow when the wind drives it sideways.
- Baffles (Rafter Vents)
Foam or cardboard channels stapled between the rafters at the eaves that hold insulation back and keep an air path open from the soffit vents up into the attic. Without baffles, blown-in insulation slides down and blocks the intake.
- NFA (Net Free Area)
The actual open area of a vent that air can pass through, measured in square inches, after subtracting screens, louvers, and baffles. Vents are rated by NFA, and the intake and exhaust totals are what get compared to the attic floor area when sizing a system.
- 1/300 Rule
The common sizing guideline that an attic needs one square foot of net free vent area for every 300 square feet of attic floor, split evenly between intake and exhaust, when a vapor retarder is present. Without one, the ratio doubles to 1/150.
- Intake and Exhaust Balance
The principle that soffit intake should equal or slightly exceed ridge or roof exhaust. When exhaust outpaces intake, the attic pulls makeup air from the living space, dragging heat and moisture up into the insulation. More exhaust is not automatically better.
- R-Value
A measure of how well insulation resists heat flow; higher numbers mean more resistance. Attic insulation is rated by total R-value across its full depth, and adding depth is one of the cheapest ways to reduce ice dams and heating bills in Michigan.
- Air Sealing
Closing the gaps where warm house air leaks into the attic: around light fixtures, plumbing stacks, chimney chases, top plates, and the attic hatch. Air sealing before adding insulation does more to stop ice dams than either ventilation or insulation alone.
- Ice Dam
A ridge of ice that builds at the eave when heat escaping the attic melts snow higher on the roof and the water refreezes at the cold edge. Water pooling behind the dam backs up under the shingles, which is why eaves need ice and water shield.
- Gable Vent
A louvered vent set into the triangular gable wall at each end of the attic. Gable vents were the standard exhaust on older homes, but when a ridge vent is added they should usually be closed off so air does not just cross the attic between them.
- Vapor Retarder
A layer, such as kraft-faced insulation or polyethylene sheeting, on the warm side of the ceiling that slows moisture from the house moving into the attic. Whether the attic has one changes the ventilation ratio from 1/150 to 1/300.
- Attic Condensation
Moisture that forms on the underside of the roof deck when warm, humid house air reaches cold sheathing in winter. It shows up as frost on nail tips, dark staining, or mold on the plywood, and it usually means air leaks plus weak ventilation.
- Ventilation Analysis
A measured check of the attic floor area, existing intake and exhaust NFA, insulation depth, and blocked soffits, done to size the right vent system. Roofing Army includes a ventilation analysis on every estimate, because a new roof over a starved attic will fail early.
Installation and Workmanship
What happens on install day and the details that separate a roof that lasts from one that leaks in five years.
- Tear-Off
Stripping every layer of old shingles and underlayment down to the bare decking before the new roof goes on. A tear-off is the only way to inspect and repair the deck, replace flashing, and install ice and water shield properly, which is why we do one on every replacement.
- Overlay (Roof-Over)
Installing new shingles directly over the existing layer instead of tearing it off. It saves on labor and disposal, but it hides rotted decking, cannot include new ice and water shield, adds weight, and most manufacturers shorten or void their warranty over a second layer.
- Cap Nails
Ring-shank nails with a one-inch plastic cap that spread the holding force across synthetic underlayment so it does not tear out in the wind. Roofing Army fastens all synthetic underlayment with cap nails, never staples, to match manufacturer instructions.
- Staples
Thin wire fasteners shot from a stapler. They are fast and cheap, which is why some crews use them on underlayment and even shingles, but staples tear through synthetic underlayment in wind, and stapled shingles have been out of code for years.
- Nailing Zone
The marked band across each shingle where the manufacturer requires nails to go, usually just above the sealant strip where the nail passes through both the top layer and the layer below. Nails outside this band do not hold the double thickness and can miss the course beneath.
- High-Nailing
Driving nails above the nailing zone, usually because the installer is moving fast. A high nail only catches one layer of shingle instead of two, so the course below is held by nothing but its sealant strip. High-nailed roofs blow off early and lose warranty coverage.
- 6-Nail Pattern
Using six nails per shingle instead of the standard four. Most manufacturers require six nails to qualify for their highest wind warranty, and many require it on any roof steeper than 21/12 or in high-wind areas. It costs a little more in nails and time.
- Exposure
The portion of each shingle left visible after the next course is installed above it, typically five to five and five-eighths inches on architectural shingles. Installing at a larger exposure than the manufacturer specifies stretches the material but leaves the nails and joints unprotected.
- Offset (Stagger)
The horizontal distance each course of shingles is shifted from the one below so the joints between shingles never line up vertically. Manufacturers specify a minimum offset, and a repeating pattern that is too tight creates a straight water path down the roof.
- Magnet Sweep
Rolling a wheeled magnet across the lawn, driveway, beds, and walkways after the job to pick up dropped roofing nails. A tear-off pulls thousands of old nails, and a proper sweep is the difference between a clean yard and a flat tire two weeks later.
- Project Manager
The Roofing Army employee responsible for your job from start to finish: confirming the scope, walking the deck during tear-off, checking flashing and nailing, handling change orders, and doing the final walkthrough. A project manager is on site for every job we install.
- Permit
Written approval from your local building department to do the roofing work, pulled by the contractor before the job starts. Most communities require one for a full replacement, and the fee and process vary by city. A contractor who tells you to skip it is a red flag.
- Final Inspection
The building department visit that closes out the permit after the roof is done, plus the walkthrough your project manager does with you. The municipal inspector checks what is visible from the ground or ladder, so the contractor's own quality checks during the install matter more.
- Re-Decking
Replacing damaged or undersized roof decking with new plywood or OSB before the new roof goes on. Full re-decking is common on older homes with spaced plank sheathing or delaminated panels; partial re-decking replaces only the soft sheets found during tear-off.
- Deck Inspection
Walking the exposed decking after tear-off to find soft spots, rot, delamination, and gaps wider than the shingle manufacturer allows. This is the one moment the deck can be seen, so the project manager photographs problem areas and gets your approval before replacing sheets.
- Debris Disposal
Hauling away the old shingles, underlayment, flashing, and packaging, usually in a dump trailer or dumpster placed in the driveway. Disposal fees are part of the tear-off cost, and the driveway should be protected from the trailer and from dropped debris.
- Manufacturer Installation Instructions
The written specifications printed on each shingle bundle and published by the manufacturer, covering nail count, nailing zone, exposure, offset, starter, and underlayment. Following them is a condition of the warranty, and building inspectors reference them when code is silent.
- In-House Crew
Installers who work directly for the roofing company rather than for a subcontractor hired by the job. In-house crews are trained to one standard and answer to the same project manager, which is harder to guarantee when a company subs out its labor.
Damage and Weather
How to name what you are seeing on the roof, what causes it, and whether it is a repair, a replacement, or an insurance claim.
- Hail Bruising
A soft, dark spot on a shingle where hail crushed the mat and knocked granules loose, often with no visible hole. Bruises feel like a soft spot when pressed and expose the asphalt to sun, so the shingle fails early. Adjusters count bruises per test square.
- Granule Loss
Shedding of the mineral granules that protect the asphalt from ultraviolet light. Some loss is normal with age and shows up in gutters, but bare patches, heavy piles at downspouts, or loss concentrated on one slope point to hail, foot traffic, or a manufacturing defect.
- Creased Shingles
A horizontal line across a shingle tab where wind lifted it and folded it back, breaking the mat even if it settled back into place. Creased shingles look fine from the ground but will tear off in the next storm, and they are a valid wind damage claim.
- Blistering
Small raised bubbles on the shingle surface caused by moisture or gas trapped in the asphalt during manufacturing, made worse by attic heat. Popped blisters look like hail hits but are round pits without bruised mats. Blistering is a defect or ventilation issue, not storm damage.
- Cupping and Curling
Shingle edges or corners turning up or under as the asphalt dries out and shrinks with age. Cupped shingles no longer seal, lift in wind, and let water under the edges. Widespread curling means the roof is at the end of its life, not a candidate for repair.
- Wind Uplift
The force created when wind passes over a roof and creates suction on the shingles, strongest at eaves, rakes, ridges, and corners. Shingles resist uplift through the sealant strip and proper nailing; unsealed, high-nailed, or 3-tab shingles are the first to go.
- Thermal Cracking
Cracks that form across shingles as the asphalt loses its oils and can no longer flex with Michigan's freeze and thaw cycles. Thermal cracking spreads across whole slopes at once and is an age and quality issue, which insurers treat as wear rather than damage.
- Ponding
Standing water that stays on a flat or low-slope roof more than 48 hours after rain. Ponding breaks down membranes, adds weight, and finds every pinhole. It usually means the deck sags or the drains and scuppers are blocked or set too high.
- Storm Chaser
An out-of-area roofing outfit that follows hail and wind events, canvasses neighborhoods door to door, and pressures homeowners into filing claims and signing contracts on the spot. They are typically gone before the workmanship warranty is ever needed. Check for a local office and a Michigan builder license.
- Lifted and Missing Shingles
Shingles that have broken their seal and stand up in the wind, or have torn off entirely and left the underlayment or bare deck exposed. Missing shingles need attention within days, especially in a wet season, and are the most common emergency repair call we get.
- Nail Pops
Roofing nails that back out of the deck over time and push up the shingle above them, eventually wearing a hole through it. Nail pops come from undersized nails, nails that missed the rafter, or decking that has moved with moisture. Each one is a future leak.
- Soft Spots (Rotted Decking)
Areas of the roof that feel spongy underfoot because the plywood or OSB underneath has absorbed water and delaminated or rotted. Soft spots cluster around chimneys, valleys, eaves, and old leaks, and each one has to be cut out and replaced during a tear-off.
- Moss and Algae Staining
Black streaks are algae feeding on limestone filler in the shingles; green patches are moss holding moisture against the surface. Algae is cosmetic, but moss lifts shingle edges and speeds wear on shaded north slopes. Never pressure wash a shingle roof to remove either.
- Freeze-Thaw Cycle
The repeated swing between freezing and thawing that Southeast Michigan roofs go through dozens of times each winter. Water that gets into a crack, seam, or nail hole expands when it freezes and widens the opening a little each time, which is why small flashing gaps become leaks.
- Roof Leak
Water reaching the interior, usually first seen as a ceiling stain, a wet spot on attic insulation, or drips around a light fixture. The entry point on the roof is often several feet uphill of the stain, since water travels along rafters and decking before it drops.
- Emergency Tarp
A heavy plastic tarp secured over a damaged section of roof with furring strips or sandbags to keep water out until a permanent repair can be made. Tarping is a stopgap for storm damage, fallen limbs, or fire, and insurers expect homeowners to take this step to limit further loss.
- Sagging Roofline
A visible dip or wave along the ridge or across a roof plane. Sagging can come from rotted decking, undersized or cut rafters, too many layers of shingles, or long-term water damage. It is a structural sign that needs to be assessed before any roofing work.
Insurance and Claims
The vocabulary on your policy and your adjuster's estimate, explained so you know what you are actually owed after a storm.
- ACV (Actual Cash Value)
The replacement cost of your roof minus depreciation for its age and condition. An ACV policy pays only this depreciated amount, so a 15-year-old roof might be covered at a fraction of what a new one costs. Check which type of coverage you have before a storm.
- RCV (Replacement Cost Value)
The full cost to replace the damaged roof with new materials of like kind and quality, without deducting for age. RCV policies usually pay the ACV first and release the remaining depreciation after the work is done and the invoice is submitted.
- Recoverable Depreciation
The difference between RCV and ACV that an RCV policy holds back until the roof is actually replaced. Once the contractor finishes and you send the final invoice, the insurer releases this second payment. It is forfeited if the work is not completed within the policy's time limit.
- Deductible
The portion of a covered loss you pay out of pocket before the insurer pays the rest. The deductible is subtracted from the claim payment, not paid to the insurer, and a contractor who offers to waive or absorb it is asking you to commit insurance fraud.
- Percentage Deductible
A wind or hail deductible set as a percentage of the home's insured value instead of a flat dollar amount, commonly one to two percent. On a home insured for $350,000, a two percent deductible is $7,000, which can be most of the roof cost. Read your declarations page.
- Adjuster
The person the insurance company sends to inspect the damage, document it, and write the estimate that determines what the claim pays. Staff adjusters work for the carrier; independent adjusters are contracted by it. Have your roofer present at the inspection to point out damage.
- Public Adjuster
A licensed adjuster hired by the homeowner, not the insurer, to document the loss and negotiate the claim on the homeowner's behalf for a percentage of the payout. Public adjusters can help on large or disputed claims but are usually unnecessary for a straightforward roof.
- Supplement
A request to the insurer to add items the original adjuster's estimate missed or underpriced, such as ice and water shield, drip edge, code-required ventilation, decking replacement, or steep-pitch labor. Supplements are normal and should be documented with photos and the code or manufacturer requirement.
- Overhead and Profit (O&P)
An additional line, typically ten percent overhead plus ten percent profit, that insurers may add to a claim when the job is complex enough to require a general contractor coordinating multiple trades. Whether O&P applies to a roof-only claim depends on the carrier and the scope.
- Matching
The question of whether the insurer must replace undamaged slopes so the whole roof matches when the original shingle is discontinued and a repair would leave a visible mismatch. Matching rules depend on your policy language and state regulations, and they are a frequent point of dispute.
- Assignment of Benefits (AOB)
A contract clause that transfers your right to the insurance payout to the contractor, letting them deal with the insurer directly and even sue in your name. Some storm chasers rely on AOB agreements. Read anything you sign carefully; you can let a roofer help without signing away your claim.
- Test Square
A 10 by 10 foot area the adjuster marks off on each slope to count hail hits or wind-damaged shingles. Carriers use a threshold of hits per square to decide whether a slope qualifies for replacement, so where the test square is drawn matters. Ask to see the count.
- Claim Denial or Partial Approval
The insurer's decision that the damage is wear and tear, a manufacturing defect, or below the threshold for replacement, or that only some slopes qualify. Denials can be appealed with a re-inspection, additional photos, a contractor's report, or, on larger claims, an appraisal clause.
- Scope of Loss
The adjuster's itemized estimate, usually produced in Xactimate software, listing every material and labor line with quantities and unit prices. Your contractor should compare the scope line by line against what the roof actually needs and supplement anything missing before work starts.
- Proof of Loss
A sworn statement the insurer may require that lists the damage, the date and cause, and the amount claimed. Policies usually set a deadline to submit it after a request, and missing that deadline can delay or jeopardize payment, so respond promptly.
- Date of Loss
The date the damage occurred, which ties the claim to a specific storm and determines which policy terms apply. Insurers verify it against weather data, and claims filed long after the event get more scrutiny, so document damage with dated photos as soon as it is safe.
- Cosmetic Damage Exclusion
A policy endorsement, most common on metal roofs, that excludes hail dents and marks that change appearance but do not affect the roof's ability to shed water. With this exclusion, a dented metal roof may not be covered at all, so ask your agent before choosing metal.
- Code Upgrade Coverage (Ordinance or Law)
Optional coverage that pays for work the current building code requires but the original roof did not have, such as ice and water shield, drip edge, or added ventilation. Without it, the insurer may pay only to replace what was there, leaving code items to you.
Cost, Warranty and Contracts
How roofing is priced, what the warranty paperwork actually promises, and what to look for before you sign.
- Per-Square Pricing
Quoting a roof by the square, meaning 100 square feet, with the price covering tear-off, materials, labor, and disposal. Per-square pricing lets you compare bids, but it hides differences in underlayment, ice and water coverage, flashing, and ventilation, so compare the full scope too.
- Tear-Off Cost
The labor and disposal portion of a replacement bid for removing the old roof. It rises with the number of existing layers, the pitch, and the distance to the dump trailer. Bids that seem cheap sometimes exclude tear-off entirely and assume an overlay.
- Decking Allowance
A set number of sheets of plywood or OSB included in the contract price, with a stated per-sheet cost for anything beyond it. Since the deck cannot be seen until tear-off, an allowance keeps the surprise manageable and puts the per-sheet price in writing up front.
- Change Order
A written amendment to the contract, signed by both sides, that adds or removes work and adjusts the price. Legitimate change orders cover things found during tear-off, such as extra decking or a rotted chimney chase. Nothing should be added to your bill without one.
- Manufacturer Warranty
The shingle maker's coverage against defects in the product itself, often advertised as limited lifetime. It does not cover installation mistakes, and most require the roof to be installed per the manufacturer's instructions with a full system of their components to get the top tier.
- Workmanship Warranty
The contractor's own coverage for leaks and failures caused by how the roof was installed, which is what most real roof problems come from. Industry norm runs one to ten years. Roofing Army backs its installations with a 50-year workmanship warranty.
- Prorated vs Non-Prorated
A non-prorated warranty pays the full repair or replacement cost for a set period, while a prorated one reduces what it pays each year as the roof ages. Many lifetime shingle warranties are non-prorated for the first ten years and then prorated heavily after that.
- Transferable Warranty
A warranty that can pass to the next owner when the house is sold, usually once and sometimes only if the manufacturer or contractor is notified within a set window. A transferable roof warranty is a real selling point, so keep the paperwork with your closing documents.
- Lien Waiver
A signed document from the contractor, and from any suppliers or subcontractors, stating they have been paid and give up the right to place a construction lien on your home. Ask for a full and final lien waiver when you make the last payment.
- Deposit
Money paid to the contractor before work begins. Large deposits are a common way homeowners lose money to companies that never show up. Roofing Army takes no deposit; you pay when the roof is installed and you have walked it with your project manager.
- Financing
Paying for the roof over time through a lender the contractor partners with, a home equity loan, or a personal loan. Contractor financing usually offers promotional terms and quick approval; compare the rate after any promotional period ends before you decide.
- 5 Quotes
Roofing Army's practice of presenting five written options on every estimate, from the most economical shingle and scope to a premium full system, so you can see exactly what each price level includes and choose the one that fits the house and the budget.
- Scope of Work
The section of a proposal that spells out exactly what will be done: tear-off, underlayment type, ice and water coverage, flashing replaced or reused, ventilation, decking allowance, cleanup, and warranty. Two bids with the same price can have very different scopes.
- System (Enhanced) Warranty
The manufacturer's upgraded warranty offered when a certified contractor installs the shingles together with the maker's own starter, underlayment, ice and water, and ridge products. System warranties add longer non-prorated periods and sometimes workmanship coverage backed by the manufacturer.
- Certified Installer
A contractor who has met a shingle manufacturer's requirements for training, licensing, insurance, and reputation and can therefore offer that maker's enhanced system warranties. Certification levels vary by brand, and it is worth confirming the status is current.
- Contract (Proposal)
The signed agreement that should include the scope of work, materials by brand and product line, price, payment terms, start and completion window, permit responsibility, cleanup, warranties, and how change orders are handled. If it is not in the contract, do not count on it.
- Job Portal
Roofing Army's online project portal where you can follow your job, see drone photos taken before and after installation, review the scope and documents, and message the office. It is how we show you the finished roof without asking you to climb a ladder.
Heard a term that is not here? Ask us and we will add it. For the numbers behind these words, see the calculators, our published job prices, and the blog.